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Tag: Genuine Japanese Brake Parts

Home / Tagged "Genuine Japanese Brake Parts"
Autoparts, Autospares, Kenya, Taleon, Taleon News
February 19, 2026 By 0 Comments

Subaru Forester Maintenance: Keeping Your Boxer Engine and Suspension in Top Shape

If you drive a Subaru Forester in Kenya—whether it’s the classic SG5, the rugged SH5, or the modern SJ—you know it’s more than just a car. It’s a lifestyle. With its Symmetrical All-Wheel Drive and the iconic growl of the Boxer engine, the Forester is built to handle everything from Nairobi’s traffic to the sandy tracks of Magadi.

However, a Subaru is a precision-engineered machine. Unlike a basic utility car, it does not tolerate “Jua Kali” maintenance or poor-quality parts. At Taleon Spares Kenya, we specialize in the specific components that keep Foresters performing at their peak.

In this guide, we’ll cover the two pillars of Forester health: maintaining that unique Boxer engine and solving the common “sagging rear” suspension issues.

1. The Heart of the Beast: The Boxer Engine

The Forester’s engine is “horizontal,” meaning the pistons move side-to-side rather than up and down. This gives you a lower center of gravity and better handling, but it also means gravity works differently on your engine oil.

The Oil Consumption Rule

Because the cylinders are horizontal, oil can pool at the bottom. Subaru engines are known to “consume” a little oil between services.

  • The Maintenance Tip: Check your oil dipstick every two weeks. If you notice a drop, top it up with high-quality 5W-30 or 0W-20 fully synthetic oil. Never let a Subaru run low on oil; it’s the quickest way to ruin the crankshaft bearings.

Cooling is Life

The Boxer engine is sensitive to heat. If your radiator is clogged or your fan fails, the head gaskets are the first to go.

  • The Taleon Tip: Inspect your radiator for “sweating” at the plastic tanks. We stock Ex-Japan Radiators and high-pressure caps to ensure your cooling system can handle a climb up the Limuru escarpment without breaking a sweat.

2. Solving the “Saggy Rear” Suspension

If your Forester looks like it’s “sitting on its tail” even when empty, you aren’t alone. Many Foresters (especially the SH and SJ models) came from Japan with Self-Leveling Shocks (SLS). These are great when new, but once they fail, they are incredibly expensive to replace with the same “original” units.

The Conversion Solution

At Taleon Spares Kenya, we provide the most popular fix for Kenyan Subaru owners: The SLS Delete.

Instead of buying one expensive self-leveling shock, we provide a kit consisting of:

  1. Standard KYB Excel-G Shocks: Reliable and much more affordable.
  2. Heavy-Duty Coil Springs: To compensate for the loss of the self-leveling feature.

This setup restores your ride height permanently and ensures your car doesn’t “bottom out” when you’re loaded for a road trip to Nanyuki.

3. The “Subie Humming” (Wheel Bearings)

Foresters are notorious for eating wheel bearings, especially if you have upgraded to larger, heavier off-road tires.

  • The Sound: A low-pitched drone that gets louder as you speed up.
  • The Fix: We stock Genuine Ex-Japan Hub Assemblies and NSK/NTN Bearings. Always ensure your mechanic uses a proper press to install these; hammering them in will shorten their life to just a few weeks.

4. Transmission & AWD Care

The Symmetrical AWD system requires all four tires to be the same size and have similar tread wear. If you drive with one “donut” spare or mismatched tires for too long, you will damage the center differential.

  • Maintenance: Change your Gearbox/Differential oil every 40,000km to keep the AWD transfer smooth.

Summary: The Forester “Must-Have” Spares List

ComponentWhy it mattersTaleon Spares Recommendation
Air FilterBoxer engines need high airflow.Use Teson or Genuine Subaru filters.
Spark PlugsHard to reach; need long life.NGK Iridium (replace every 60k-100k km).
Rear ShocksPrevents the “sinking” look.KYB + HD Coil Spring Conversion.
Stabilizer BushingsStops the “clunking” on rough roads.High-density rubber bushings.

Conclusion: Keep the Adventure Going

A well-maintained Subaru Forester is one of the most capable vehicles on Kenyan roads. By staying ahead of its unique needs—especially its suspension and oil levels—you ensure that your Subie remains a reliable partner for years to come.
Autoparts, Autospares, Kenya, Taleon, Taleon News
February 19, 2026 By 0 Comments

Why the Nissan Note E12 Requires Specific Suspension Components

If you’ve upgraded from the older Nissan Note (E11) to the newer E12 model, you’ve likely noticed a difference in how the car sits and handles. The E12 is sleeker and more aerodynamic, but it also features a more “refined” suspension setup that is highly sensitive to the parts you use.

At Taleon Spares Kenya, we often see E12 owners trying to “fit” parts from other Nissans or the older Note model to save money. This is a mistake. The E12 was designed with specific weight distributions and geometry that require exact-match components.

Here is why your Nissan Note E12 needs specific suspension parts and what you should look for during your next service.

1. The Shock Absorber Difference: Part #332148

The front struts of the Nissan Note E12 are unique. While they may look similar to those on a Nissan Tiida or an older Note, the valving (the internal pressure) is specifically tuned for the E12’s lighter chassis.

  • The Gold Standard: At Taleon Spares, we stock the KYB Excel-G (Part #332148 for Right / #332149 for Left). These are gas-pressured twin-tube shocks designed to handle the “floaty” feeling that E12s sometimes get at high speeds.
  • Why it Matters: Using the wrong shock absorber can lead to “bottoming out” on Kenyan speed bumps, which eventually damages your strut mounts and even your engine mounts.

2. Lower Control Arms: The “Vibration” Trap

The E12 uses a lightweight lower control arm design. One of the most common complaints we hear from owners is a rattling noise near the pedals when driving on rough murram roads.

  • The Culprit: This is almost always the rear bushing of the front lower control arm.
  • The Fix: While you can buy just the bush, the E12’s ball joint is also prone to early wear. We highly recommend our Ex-Japan Complete Control Arms. Because they are factory-balanced, they eliminate the vibrations that “pressed-in” bushes often fail to solve.

3. Rear Coil Springs: Solving the “Sag”

If you look at many Nissan Notes on Kenyan roads, the rear often looks lower than the front—especially if there are passengers in the back. This “sagging” ruins your aerodynamics and causes the car to scrape on every estate bump.

  • The Heavy-Duty Solution: We stock OBK Heavy-Duty Rear Coil Springs specifically for the E12. These are slightly thicker than the standard Japanese springs, allowing the car to maintain its height even when carrying a full load of shopping or family members.

4. Steering Rack: The EPS (Electric) Factor

Unlike older cars with hydraulic fluid, the Nissan Note E12 uses Electric Power Steering (EPS). This means the steering rack is connected to an electric motor.

  • Specific Faults: If your steering feels “jerky” or you see a steering wheel light on the dashboard, it’s an electronic issue.
  • Replacement Tip: If you need to replace the rack, you must ensure the part matches your E12’s specific ECU programming. At Taleon Spares, we provide Ex-Japan Electronic Steering Racks that are tested for electronic compatibility to ensure your “Lane Departure” and “Traction Control” systems keep working.

5. Wheel Hubs and the ABS Sensor

The E12 is packed with safety technology. Its wheel hub bearings come with an integrated magnetic sensor ring for the ABS.

  • The Mistake: Many owners buy a “cheap” bearing that doesn’t have the magnetic ring. The result? Your ABS, Cruise Control, and Brake lights will all turn on, and your car might go into “limp mode.”
  • The Taleon Promise: Our E12 hubs are guaranteed to be ABS-compatible, keeping your dashboard clear of warning lights.

Conclusion: Keep Your Note E12 “Note-Worthy”

The Nissan Note E12 is a fantastic, reliable car—if you treat its suspension with respect. Using specific, high-quality parts isn’t just about comfort; it’s about protecting the complex electronics and lightweight frame that make the E12 so efficient.
Autoparts, Autospares, Kenya, Taleon, Taleon News
February 19, 2026 By 0 Comments

The Mazda CX-5 Maintenance Checklist: Essential Spares Every Owner Needs

If you drive a Mazda CX-5 in Kenya, you’re part of a growing community that values style, “Jinba Ittai” handling, and premium interiors. Whether you have the first generation (KE) or the newer (KF) model, you know this car is a joy to drive—but it can be demanding when it comes to maintenance.

Unlike some rugged utility vehicles, the CX-5 is a precision machine. Its “SkyActiv” technology means that everything from the suspension to the engine sensors works in tight harmony. On our rough Kenyan roads, keeping that harmony requires proactive care.

At Taleon Spares Kenya, we’ve analyzed the most common requests from CX-5 owners. To help you keep your Mazda in showroom condition, we’ve put together the ultimate maintenance checklist of the essential spares you should keep an eye on.

1. Suspension: Protecting the “Zoom-Zoom” Feel

The CX-5 is famous for handling like a sedan despite being an SUV. However, its suspension is often the first thing to suffer from Nairobi’s potholes.

  • Front Struts & Rear Shocks: If you notice your Mazda “nose-diving” when you brake or feeling unstable on corners, your dampers are likely worn. At Taleon Spares, we stock KYB Excel-G and Genuine Ex-Japan shocks specifically for the CX-5 to restore that sharp handling.
  • Lower Control Arm Bushes: The large “big-end” bush on the CX-5 front arm is a known weak point. Instead of replacing the entire expensive arm, many owners visit us for Heavy-Duty Arm Bushes or Ex-Japan complete arms for a more durable fix.
  • Stabilizer (Anti-Roll Bar) Links: Are you hearing a light “rattle” on gravel roads? It’s almost certainly your stabilizer links. These are affordable parts that make a massive difference in ride quietness.

2. The Diesel-Specific Checklist (SkyActiv-D)

If you drive the 2.2L Diesel variant, your maintenance needs are much stricter than the petrol version.

  • Injector Seals: These should be inspected regularly. If they leak, carbon can build up in the oil sump and block the oil strainer, leading to catastrophic engine failure.
  • DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) Care: Short city trips in Nairobi traffic can clog the DPF. Ensure you use the correct Low Ash Oil (DL-1 or ACEA C3) available at our shop to prevent expensive filter replacements.
  • Drive Belts & Tensioners: The CX-5 uses a serpentine belt that powers the alternator and water pump. If you hear a squealing sound on a cold start, your tensioner may be failing.

3. Braking System: Stopping the SUV

The CX-5 is a heavy car, and its brakes work hard.

  • Brake Pads: We recommend checking your pads every 10,000km. For the CX-5, we stock Akebono and Ex-Japan pads that offer high stopping power without the annoying “squeal” or excessive black dust on your rims.
  • Electric Parking Brake (EPB) Maintenance: Newer CX-5s have an electronic handbrake. Never let a “Jua Kali” mechanic force the rear calipers open during a pad change; they must be put into “Service Mode” to avoid damaging the expensive EPB motors.

4. Transmission & Drivetrain

  • SkyActiv-Drive Fluid: Mazda claims their transmission fluid is “lifetime,” but on Kenyan roads and in our heat, we recommend a “drain and fill” every 60,000km to prevent rough shifting.
  • Transfer Case & Differential Oil: If you have the AWD (All-Wheel Drive) version, don’t forget to change the rear diff oil, especially if you drive through water during the rainy season.

5. Body & Accessories: The Little Things

  • Sump Guards: Because the CX-5 has moderate ground clearance, many owners install a Heavy-Duty Steel Sump Guard from Taleon Spares to protect the engine oil pan from high speed bumps.
  • Mirror Motors: A common CX-5 “glitch” in Kenya is the side mirrors failing to fold. We stock replacement Mirror Folding Motors and Gears so you don’t have to buy a whole new mirror assembly.

Summary: The “Taleon Spares” Maintenance Schedule

IntervalTaskEssential Part
Every 5k-7k kmBasic ServiceOil Filter, Air Filter, Cabin Filter
Every 20,000 kmSuspension CheckStabilizer Links, Bushings
Every 40,000 kmMajor ServiceSpark Plugs (Petrol) or Injector Check (Diesel)
Every 60,000 kmDrivetrainATF Fluid Change, Brake Fluid Flush

Conclusion: Don’t Wait for the Warning Light

The Mazda CX-5 is a rewarding car to own, but it doesn’t tolerate “cheap” fixes. Using the right parts ensures that your “Zoom-Zoom” experience lasts for hundreds of thousands of kilometers.
Autoparts, Autospares, Kenya, Taleon, Taleon News
February 19, 2026 By 0 Comments

Power Steering Fluid Leaks: Is it Your Rack or a Loose Hose?

One morning, you move your car from your parking spot and notice a small, reddish puddle on the ground near the front tires. You dip your finger in it—it’s oily and has a distinct smell. Your heart sinks because you know what it is: Power Steering Fluid.

A leak in your power steering system is more than just a mess on your driveway; it’s a safety hazard. If the fluid runs too low, your steering will become “heavy,” your pump will start to whine, and eventually, you could lose control of the car entirely.

But before you panic and assume you need an expensive new steering rack from Taleon Spares Kenya, you need to play detective. Not all leaks are created equal. In this guide, we help you identify if your leak is a simple hose fix or a major rack replacement.

1. How to Identify Power Steering Fluid

Before diagnosing the leak, ensure it’s actually power steering fluid.

  • Color: Usually red or pink (if using ATF/Dexron III) or clear/amber (if using specific European fluids).
  • Smell: It has a distinct “burnt marshmallow” or chemical smell.
  • Location: Usually found under the front of the engine, often slightly to the side where the reservoir or pump is located.

2. The Simple Culprit: A Loose or Cracked Hose

The power steering system relies on two main hoses:

  1. The High-Pressure Hose: This carries fluid from the pump to the steering rack. Because it’s under high pressure, it is the most common part to leak.
  2. The Return Hose: This carries fluid back to the reservoir.

How to check: Open your hood and look for the power steering pump. Follow the rubber lines. Do you see “sweating” or wetness around the metal clamps? Often, the rubber becomes brittle due to the heat of the Kenyan sun and starts to crack.

  • The Fix: If it’s just a hose, you’re in luck! Replacing a hose or tightening a clamp is a quick and affordable repair.

3. The Serious Culprit: The Steering Rack Seals

If the hoses look dry but you see fluid dripping from the ends of the steering rack (inside the rubber bellows or “boots”), you have a bigger problem.

Inside the steering rack are hydraulic seals. Over time, these seals wear out—especially if you frequent dusty roads in areas like Kajiado or Machakos. Once the seals fail, the fluid leaks into the rubber boots. When the boots get full, the fluid eventually spills out onto your driveway.

How to check: Ask your mechanic to squeeze the steering rack bellows. If they feel like they are full of liquid or if fluid squirts out when squeezed, your internal seals are gone.

  • The Fix: In this case, the rack usually needs to be replaced. At Taleon Spares, we recommend Ex-Japan Steering Racks because they offer the best balance of “original factory seals” and “affordable pricing.”

4. Don’t Forget the Power Steering Pump

Sometimes the leak isn’t from the rack or the hoses, but the pump itself. The pump has an internal shaft seal that can fail.

The “Whining” Sign: If your car makes a loud whining or screeching sound when you turn the steering wheel, your pump is either leaking or “sucking air.” If you ignore a leaking pump, it will eventually seize, which could cause your drive belt to snap—leaving you stranded.

5. Why “Stop-Leak” Fluids are a Bad Idea

Many Kenyan drivers try to fix leaks by pouring “Stop-Leak” additives into the reservoir. We strongly advise against this. These chemicals work by causing the rubber seals to swell up. While it might stop a leak for a week, it eventually makes the rubber “mushy” and causes all the other seals in the system to fail. It’s a “Jua Kali” fix that leads to a much more expensive repair later.

6. How Taleon Spares Can Help

Whether it’s a minor hose issue or a total rack failure, we have the parts to get you back on the road.

  • Ex-Japan Steering Racks: For Toyota, Nissan, Mazda, and Honda.
  • Power Steering Pumps: Genuine replacements that don’t whine.
  • Expert Advice: If you aren’t sure where the leak is coming from, call us! We can recommend a trusted technician to help you diagnose it.

Conclusion: Catch the Leak Early

A small leak today is a cheap fix. A dry system tomorrow is an expensive disaster. If you see spots on your driveway, check your reservoir levels immediately and look for the source of the drip.
Autoparts, Autospares, Kenya, Taleon, Taleon News
February 19, 2026 By 0 Comments

Hearing a Humming Noise? It Might Be Your Wheel Hub Bearing

You’re cruising along the Thika Superhighway or the Southern Bypass, and as your speed climbs to 80km/h, you notice it—a low, persistent “hmmm” or a droning sound that seems to be coming from under the floorboards. You turn up the radio, but the sound just gets louder as you go faster.

In the Kenyan car community, this sound is often misdiagnosed as “road noise” or “old tires.” However, at Taleon Spares Kenya, we know that more often than not, that unhappy “bee” trapped in your wheel is actually a failing Wheel Hub Bearing.

In this guide, we’ll explain what a wheel hub bearing does, how to tell if yours is dying, and why ignoring that humming noise could lead to one of the most dangerous mechanical failures on the road.

1. What is a Wheel Hub Bearing?

The wheel hub bearing is the unsung hero of your car’s mobility. It is a set of steel balls (or rollers) held together by a metal ring, called a race. Its primary job is to allow your wheels to spin with zero friction while supporting the entire weight of your vehicle.

Most modern cars in Kenya, such as the Honda Fit (GE6/GK3), Toyota Vitz, and Mazda Demio, use a “sealed” hub assembly. This means the bearing is packed with high-temperature grease and sealed at the factory. It’s designed to be maintenance-free—until it isn’t.

2. Why do Hub Bearings Fail in Kenya?

While these parts are built for endurance, the Kenyan environment is a “perfect storm” for bearing failure:

  • Potholes & Speed Bumps: A heavy impact from a pothole can cause a “flat spot” on the steel balls inside the bearing. Once that smooth surface is damaged, it starts to grind.
  • Floodwaters: During the rainy season, driving through deep puddles can force water past the bearing seals. This washes away the grease and causes the metal to rust.
  • Dust & Grit: Nairobi’s fine red dust can act like an abrasive, gradually wearing down the seals and entering the bearing.
  • Overloading: Many cars like the Toyota Probox or Fielder carry loads beyond their design capacity, putting immense pressure on the rear hub bearings.

3. The 3 Tell-Tale Signs of a Bad Bearing

A. The “Speed-Sensitive” Hum

The most common symptom is a humming, growling, or roaring noise.

  • The Test: If the noise gets higher in pitch as you accelerate and lower as you slow down, it’s likely the bearing.
  • Tire Noise vs. Bearing Noise: Tire noise usually changes depending on the road surface (asphalt vs. concrete). Bearing noise stays the same regardless of the road material.

B. The “Sway Test” (Load Shifting)

This is the best way to confirm which side is failing. While driving at a safe speed on a clear road, gently sway the car left and right (like a boat).

  • If you sway left (putting weight on the right side) and the noise gets louder, your right bearing is bad.
  • If you sway right and the noise gets louder, the left bearing is the culprit.

C. Steering Wheel Vibration & “Play”

When a bearing is severely worn, it allows the wheel to “wobble” slightly on the axle. You will feel this as a vibration in the steering wheel or even through the seat. If you jack up the car and can move the wheel by hand (the 12 and 6 o’clock positions), the hub is dangerously loose.

4. The Hidden Danger: Why You Shouldn’t Wait

A humming bearing is a warning. If you ignore it, the friction will eventually generate enough heat to weld the bearing to the axle or, in extreme cases, cause the wheel to detach from the car entirely.

Additionally, many modern hubs (like the Honda Fit Rear Hub) have the ABS (Anti-lock Braking System) sensor integrated into them. A failing bearing will trigger your ABS warning light on the dashboard, potentially disabling your emergency braking system.

5. Why Choose Taleon Spares for Your Hub Replacement?

When it comes to bearings, quality is everything. A “cheap” bearing might last only 5,000km before the humming returns.

At Taleon Spares Kenya, we stock:

  • Genuine Ex-Japan Hubs: Sourced from low-mileage vehicles, offering original OEM durability.
  • Magnetic ABS-Ready Hubs: Specifically for the Honda Fit and Vezel, ensuring your dashboard lights stay off.
  • Heavy-Duty Bearings: For the Toyota Fielder and Probox to handle Kenyan loading needs.

Popular Items in Stock:

  • Honda Fit GE6/GP1 Rear Hub Bearing
  • Toyota Vitz/Passo Front Wheel Bearings
  • Mazda CX-5 Front Hub Assemblies
  • Nissan Note E12 Wheel Bearings

Conclusion: Quiet the Hum Today

Don’t let a small humming noise turn into a highway disaster. Replacing a wheel hub bearing is a straightforward job that restores your car’s silence and safety.
Autoparts, Autospares, Kenya, Taleon, Taleon News
February 19, 2026 By 0 Comments

Why Genuine Ex-Japan Suspension Parts are Better for Nairobi Roads

If you live in Nairobi, your car is constantly navigating a battlefield. Between the “hidden” speed bumps of estate roads, the deep potholes of the rainy season, and the high-speed vibrations of the Southern Bypass, your suspension never gets a day off.

When a shock absorber leaks or a control arm snaps, you face a dilemma: Do you buy a brand-new part from a local shop, or do you head to Taleon Spares Kenya for a genuine Ex-Japan part?

To the untrained eye, “new” sounds better. But experienced Kenyan drivers and top-tier mechanics know a secret: A high-quality Ex-Japan part often outlasts a cheap new aftermarket part by years. Here is why Ex-Japan is the smartest choice for Nairobi’s roads.

1. The “Zero-Defect” Origin: Japan’s Strict Inspections

In Japan, vehicles undergo a rigorous mandatory inspection called Shaken. This system is so strict that even a tiny hairline crack in a rubber bushing can cause a car to fail. Because of this, Japanese car owners maintain their vehicles to an impeccable standard using only OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) parts.

Many of the parts we stock at Taleon Spares Kenya come from vehicles with low mileage that were driven on smooth, mirror-like Japanese highways. When you buy an Ex-Japan strut or steering rack, you aren’t just buying a “used part”; you are buying a piece of high-precision Japanese engineering that has lived a very easy life—until it reaches the front lines of Nairobi.

2. Material Quality: Virgin Steel vs. Recycled Scraps

This is where the biggest difference lies. Genuine parts (the ones that come on a car from the factory) are made from high-grade virgin steel and high-density rubber compounds designed to last for a decade.

Many “new” aftermarket parts found in local shops are manufactured to a price point, not a quality point. They often use:

  • Thinner metal: Which can bend or snap when you hit a sharp pothole in Industrial Area.
  • Low-grade rubber: Which cracks under the intense Kenyan sun and heat.
  • Inferior seals: Which leak hydraulic fluid the moment they face a dusty road.

When you install an Ex-Japan Lower Control Arm from Taleon Spares, you are getting the original heavy-duty steel that was designed by Toyota, Nissan, or Mazda engineers specifically for that chassis.

3. Perfect Fitment: No “Jua Kali” Modifications

Have you ever bought a “new” part only for your mechanic to say, “Hii haishiki vizuri, wacha niongeze washer” (This doesn’t fit well, let me add a washer)?

Cheap aftermarket parts often have slight measurement errors. Even a 1mm difference in a bolt hole can lead to:

  • Persistent rattling noises.
  • Wheel alignment issues that eat your tires.
  • Stress on other suspension components.

Ex-Japan parts are original. They were born with the car. They bolt on perfectly, ensuring your car’s geometry remains exactly as the manufacturer intended. At Taleon Spares, we match parts to your specific chassis number to ensure a “plug-and-play” experience.

4. The “Kenyan Dust” Factor

Nairobi is a dusty city. That fine volcanic dust is the enemy of suspension seals. Genuine Japanese parts use multi-lip seals and specialized dust boots designed to keep contaminants out of the hydraulic chambers.

In our experience at Taleon Spares, we’ve seen “new” budget shocks fail within three months because dust entered the seal and scratched the piston. Meanwhile, a Genuine Ex-Japan KYB or Showa shock can run for years in the same conditions because the seal quality is vastly superior.

5. Better Value for Money (Total Cost of Ownership)

Let’s look at the math.

  • Option A: A “new” low-quality shock costs KSh 3,500. It lasts 6 months. Labor to replace it twice a year is KSh 2,000. Total: KSh 9,000/year.
  • Option B: A Genuine Ex-Japan shock from Taleon Spares costs KSh 5,000. It lasts 3 years. Total: KSh 5,000 (plus one-time labor).

Ex-Japan isn’t just about the parts; it’s about reducing the number of times your car sits in a garage instead of being on the road.

Conclusion: Get the “Gold Standard” at Taleon Spares

At Taleon Spares Kenya, we specialize in sourcing the best Ex-Japan suspension and steering components. We don’t just “sell junk”; we curate our inventory to ensure every part—from a Mazda CX-5 “Up Mountain” suspension to a Toyota Fielder hub bearing—is ready for the rigors of Kenyan driving.

Don’t gamble with your safety. Choose the durability of Japanese engineering.

  • View our Ex-Japan Arrivals: [Link to Shop]
  • Get a Quote for Your Model: [WhatsApp Link]
  • Visit Us: Kirinyaga Road, Nairobi (Near Shell Petrol Station).

Taleon Spares Kenya: Providing the backbone for Kenya’s cars.
Autoparts, Autospares, Kenya, Taleon, Taleon News
February 19, 2026 By 0 Comments

The Ultimate Guide to Lower Control Arms: When to Replace vs. Repair

If you’ve ever felt your steering wheel “pull” to one side, or heard a mysterious clunk when you hit a pothole in Nairobi, you’ve likely encountered a problem with your Lower Control Arms.

For many Kenyan drivers, the suspension system is a bit of a mystery. We know about shocks and tires, but the control arms are the “skeleton” that holds everything together. At Taleon Spares Kenya, we get asked every day: “Do I need to buy the whole arm, or can I just change the rubber bushes?”

In this comprehensive guide, we break down everything you need to know about lower control arms, the dangers of “pressing” new bushes, and why Ex-Japan complete arms are often the smartest investment for your car’s longevity.

1. What Exactly is a Lower Control Arm?

Think of the control arm as the “hinge” that connects your car’s wheels to its frame.

  • The Job: It allows the wheels to move up and down (when you hit a bump) while preventing them from moving forward or backward.
  • The Components: A standard control arm has three critical points:
    1. The Inner Bushings: Rubber mounts that attach to the car’s chassis.
    2. The Ball Joint: A pivot point that attaches to the wheel hub (allowing the wheel to turn).
    3. The Metal Body: The solid “A-frame” or “L-frame” that holds it all together.

When any of these three parts fail, your steering becomes “loose,” your tires wear out prematurely, and your car becomes dangerous to drive at high speeds on the highway.

2. Signs Your Control Arms are Failing

How do you know it’s time to visit the Taleon Spares shop? Watch out for these four red flags:

A. The “Clunk” on Take-off or Braking

When you shift from ‘Park’ to ‘Drive’ and press the gas, do you hear a single thud? Or when you brake suddenly, does it feel like the wheel “shifts” forward? This is usually because the control arm bushings are torn, allowing the metal arm to hit the frame.

B. Steering Wheel Vibration

If your steering wheel shakes at 80km/h (but your wheels are balanced), your control arm bushings might be so worn that they are no longer absorbing road vibrations.

C. Wandering Steering

Does your car feel “darty”? If you’re driving straight but the car keeps pulling left or right—requiring constant correction—your control arms are likely out of alignment due to wear.

D. Uneven Tire Wear

Check the inner edge of your front tires. If the inside is wearing down faster than the outside, your control arm is likely “sagging,” which throws off your wheel’s camber.

3. The Big Debate: Replace the Bushings or the Whole Arm?

This is the most common question at our Kirinyaga Road shop. In Kenya, many roadside “fundis” will suggest just buying new rubber bushes and “pressing” them into your old metal arms using a hydraulic press.

Here is why Taleon Spares usually recommends replacing the COMPLETE arm:

FeatureReplacing Only BushingsReplacing Complete Arm (Ex-Japan/New)
CostCheaper upfront.Higher initial cost.
LaborHigh (requires pressing/fitting).Low (simple bolt-on).
SafetyBall joint remains old/used.New/Healthy Ball Joint included.
Longevity3–6 months on Kenyan roads.2+ years of reliability.
IntegrityPressing can weaken the metal eyelet.Factory-sealed integrity.

The Risk of the Ball Joint: Even if you replace the rubber bushes, your Ball Joint (which is permanently attached to the arm in many models like the Mazda Demio or Toyota Vitz) might be ready to fail. If a ball joint snaps while you are driving, the wheel will literally fold under the car.

4. Why Ex-Japan Control Arms are a “Sweet Spot” for Value

At Taleon Spares Kenya, we specialize in Ex-Japan Lower Control Arms. These are original equipment (OEM) parts salvaged from vehicles in Japan.

  • Better Metal: Original Toyota or Mazda metal is much stronger than cheap “aftermarket” arms made of thin steel.
  • Factory-Pressed Bushes: The rubber in an Ex-Japan arm was installed by a robot in a factory, not by a hand-press in a local garage. This means it will last much longer under the stress of Nairobi potholes.
  • Cost-Effective: You get the quality of a 40,000 KES “New Original” arm for a fraction of the price.

5. Specific Advice for Popular Kenyan Models

Toyota Allion / Premio / Fielder (ZRT260/ZRE142)

These cars are the kings of the road, but they are heavy. The rear bushing on the front control arm is a famous “weak point.” If you feel a “jerk” when you brake, it’s time to check these.

Mazda Demio (DE/DJ)

The Demio has a very lightweight suspension. Using heavy, poor-quality aftermarket arms can make the ride feel harsh. We recommend our Ex-Japan Mazda Arms to keep that “zoom-zoom” handling smooth.

Nissan Note (E11/E12)

Nissan suspension components are sensitive. If you replace the arm, always ensure you check the Stabilizer Links at the same time, as they usually wear out together.

6. Maintenance Tip: The “Post-Replacement” Alignment

Never—and we mean never—replace a control arm without going for 3D Wheel Alignment immediately after.

Because the control arm sets the position of the wheel, a new arm will slightly change your “Toe” and “Camber” settings. If you skip alignment, you will ruin a brand-new set of tires in less than a month.

Conclusion: Don’t Compromise on Steering

Your control arms are what keep you connected to the road. If you suspect yours are failing, don’t wait for a “wheel-off” accident.

Visit Taleon Spares Kenya today. We have a massive stock of Lower Control Arms for all Japanese models, including:

  • Toyota (Vitz, Passo, IST, Wish, Noah)
  • Nissan (Tiida, Sylphy, Serena, Dualis)
  • Honda (Fit, Stream, Airwave)
Autoparts, Autospares, Kenya, Taleon, Taleon News
February 19, 2026 By 0 Comments

Why Your Car Bounces on Speed Bumps: The Role of Heavy-Duty Coil Springs

If you drive a Toyota Fielder, Wish, or Nissan Note in Kenya, you know the “thud” all too well. You’re driving home with a few bags of maize in the boot or five passengers in the car, and suddenly, every speed bump feels like a mountain. The car “bottoms out,” the mudguards scrape the ground, and the back of the car bounces uncontrollably for several meters after the bump.

Most drivers blame their shock absorbers immediately. But at Taleon Spares Kenya, we know the secret: It’s often not the shocks—it’s your coil springs.

In this guide, we dive deep into why your car bounces, why standard Japanese springs often fail on Kenyan roads, and how Heavy-Duty (HD) Coil Springs are the ultimate solution for stability and ride height.

1. The Physics of the Bounce: Springs vs. Shocks

To solve the bouncing problem, you first need to understand the difference between these two components.

  • The Coil Spring: This supports the entire weight of the vehicle. Its job is to compress when you hit a bump and then push the car back up.
  • The Shock Absorber: Its job is to dampen the spring. Without a shock, the spring would bounce up and down forever.

When your car “bounces” excessively, it means the spring is too weak to support the weight, or the shock is too weak to stop the spring’s movement. On Kenyan roads, many cars are “sagging” at the rear because the original springs have lost their tension (fatigue). When the spring is weak, it forces the shock absorber to do all the work, causing the shock to overheat and fail prematurely.

2. Why “Standard” Springs Struggle in Kenya

Most cars imported to Kenya are Ex-Japan. In Japan, roads are nearly perfect, and cars rarely carry heavy loads. Consequently, Japanese manufacturers tune the suspension for comfort, using “soft” coil springs.

However, once that car arrives in Mombasa and starts its life in Kenya, the environment changes:

  1. Station Wagon Culture: Cars like the Toyota Probox and Fielder are often used as “workhorses,” carrying heavy cargo or full families.
  2. The “Mountain” Speed Bumps: Unlike the standard bumps in Japan, Kenyan bumps are often high and sharp, forcing the spring to compress to its maximum limit (bottoming out).
  3. Corrugated Roads: Constant vibration on “murram” roads causes the steel in standard springs to fatigue faster, leading to a visible “sag” in the rear of the car even when it’s empty.

3. What are Heavy-Duty (HD) Coil Springs?

At Taleon Spares Kenya, we often recommend an upgrade to Heavy-Duty Coil Springs. But what makes them different?

  • Wire Thickness: HD springs are made from thicker steel wire. This increases the “spring rate,” meaning it takes more force to compress the spring.
  • Increased Ride Height: HD springs are designed to restore (and sometimes slightly increase) the factory ride height. This gives you better ground clearance for those rough estate roads.
  • Better Load Carrying: With HD springs, your car won’t “sag” even when the boot is full. The car remains level, which is crucial for steering and braking safety.

4. The Hidden Dangers of a “Saggy” Rear End

Ignoring the bounce and the sag isn’t just about comfort; it affects your wallet and your safety:

  • Headlight Aim: When the back of your car sags, the front points upward. At night, your headlights will blind oncoming drivers instead of lighting up the road.
  • Braking Distance: If the rear springs are weak, the weight of the car shifts too violently to the front during braking, making the car unstable.
  • Tire Wear: A sagging suspension changes the “camber” of your wheels, causing the inside of your tires to wear out in weeks.

5. Why Taleon Spares Kenya is the Leader in Suspension Solutions

We don’t just sell parts; we provide solutions. When you visit our shop or order online, we ensure you get the right fit for your specific model.

Our Specialized Inventory Includes:

  • Toyota Fielder/Axio HD Springs: Perfect for those using their cars for long-distance travel.
  • Mazda Demio/Vitz Upgrades: To prevent these low-profile cars from scraping on speed bumps.
  • Nissan Note E12 Coil Springs: Designed to handle the unique weight distribution of the Note.
  • Subaru Forester Self-Leveling Replacements: A cost-effective way to fix the common “sagging Subaru” issue.

6. DIY Check: Do You Need New Springs?

  1. The Visual Test: Park your car on a level surface. Does the rear look lower than the front? Is there a gap between the tire and the wheel arch?
  2. The Load Test: Put two adults in the backseat. If the car sinks significantly, your springs are fatigued.
  3. The “Scrape” Test: Do you hear your exhaust or mudguards scraping when you go over a standard bump? If yes, your springs have lost their “memory” and are no longer holding the car up.

Conclusion: Upgrade Your Ride Today

Don’t let your car suffer on Kenyan roads. Upgrading to Heavy-Duty Coil Springs from Taleon Spares Kenya is one of the most affordable ways to improve your car’s handling, safety, and look. It’s an investment that pays for itself by protecting your shocks and tires from unnecessary wear.
Autoparts, Autospares, Kenya, Taleon
February 19, 2026 By 0 Comments

5 Signs Your Shock Absorbers are Worn Out: The Ultimate Guide for Kenyan Drivers

If you drive in Kenya, your car’s suspension system is more than just a luxury—it is a frontline soldier. From the smooth tarmac of the Nairobi-Mombasa Highway to the unpredictable “murram” roads of the Rift Valley and the notorious potholes of Nairobi’s Eastlands, your shock absorbers (popularly known as shocks) are constantly under fire.

In this comprehensive guide, we are going to explore why shock absorbers fail, the 5 tell-tale signs that it’s time to visit Taleon Spares Kenya, and how keeping your suspension in check can save you thousands of shillings in repair bills.

The Role of Shock Absorbers: Beyond the Smooth Ride

Many Kenyan car owners believe that shocks are only there to make the ride “comfortable.” While comfort is a major benefit, the primary job of a shock absorber is safety and stability.

Technically known as dampers, shock absorbers control the movement of your car’s springs. When you hit a bump, the spring compresses and then expands. Without a shock absorber, that spring would keep bouncing like a pogo stick until all the energy is gone. The shock absorber uses hydraulic fluid to dissipate that energy, keeping your tires firmly pressed against the road.

Why is this important for you? If your tires aren’t touching the road, you can’t steer, you can’t brake effectively, and you certainly can’t corner safely. In Kenya, where sudden stops for speed bumps or stray livestock are common, your shocks are the difference between a close call and a trip to the panel beater.

Sign #1: The “Nose-Dive” and “Rear-Squat”

One of the most obvious signs of worn shocks is a loss of weight distribution control. You can feel this most clearly during two specific maneuvers: braking and accelerating.

The Nose-Dive

When you apply the brakes, especially in an emergency, the front of your car shouldn’t dip so low that it feels like the bumper will scrape the tarmac. This is called “nose-diving.” If your shocks are weak, they can no longer support the weight of the engine and the car’s body as it shifts forward under braking.

The Rear-Squat

Similarly, if you hit the accelerator and feel the back of the car sinking while the front lifts up like a boat, your rear shocks are failing. This “squatting” reduces traction on your front wheels, which is dangerous for front-wheel-drive cars common in Kenya like the Toyota Fielder or Nissan Note.

Sign #2: Uneven Tire Wear (The “Cupping” Pattern)

Next time you are at a car wash or checking your tire pressure, take a close look at the tread of your tires. Do you see smooth patches alternating with rough patches? This is known as cupping or scalloping.

When shock absorbers are worn out, they allow the wheel to “hop” as you drive. Every time the tire hits the pavement after a mini-bounce, a small amount of rubber is shaved off. Over thousands of kilometers on Kenyan roads, this creates a wavy pattern on the tire.

The Taleon Tip: If you see cupping, don’t just buy new tires. If you don’t replace the shocks, your brand-new tires will be ruined within months. Replacing your shocks at Taleon Spares Kenya is an investment in the longevity of your expensive tires.

Sign #3: Excessive Bouncing After Speed Bumps

Kenya is the land of speed bumps. Some are standard, but others—especially in residential areas—are “mountains” made of concrete.

A healthy car should settle almost immediately after crossing a bump. It should go up, come down, and stop. If your car continues to bounce two or three times after the bump is behind you, your dampers have lost their hydraulic integrity.

The “Bounce Test” (DIY)

You don’t need a mechanic to check this.

  1. Park your car on flat ground.
  2. Go to the front corner (above the wheel) and push down with all your weight.
  3. Release it quickly.
  4. If the car bounces more than 1.5 times, your shocks are “soft” and need replacement.

Sign #4: Fluid Leaks on the Shock Body

Shock absorbers are filled with hydraulic oil. To keep this oil inside, there are rubber seals at the top of the shock. Over time, heat, dust, and the constant friction of Kenyan roads cause these seals to crack.

If you look behind your wheel and see that the shock absorber looks “wet” or is covered in a dark, greasy grime (which is oil mixed with road dust), you have a leak.

Warning: A leaking shock is a dead shock. Once the fluid is gone, there is nothing left to dampen the spring’s movement. At Taleon Spares, we always recommend replacing shocks in pairs (both front or both rear) to ensure your car remains balanced.

Sign #5: Rattling and Clunking Noises

Are you hearing a “clunk” every time you hit a pothole in Nairobi? Or perhaps a persistent rattling sound when driving on a gravel road?

While these sounds could come from worn bushings or ball joints, they are often a sign that the internal components of the shock absorber have collapsed, or the mounting bolts have worked themselves loose because the shock is no longer absorbing the vibration.

In cars like the Mazda Demio or Toyota Vitz, these noises often manifest as a “metallic knock” that makes the car feel old and unstable.

Why Kenyan Roads are Hard on Shocks

It’s no secret that the “lifespan” of a shock absorber in Europe or Japan is much longer than in Kenya. In those regions, a shock might last 100,000km. In Kenya, we often see shocks failing at 40,000km to 60,000km. Why?

  1. The Dust Factor: Fine African dust acts like sandpaper. It gets into the seals of the shocks and grinds them down every time the piston moves up and down.
  2. Unmarked Speed Bumps: We’ve all hit that one speed bump at 60km/h because it wasn’t painted. That single “thump” can bend a piston rod or blow a seal instantly.
  3. Overloading: Many Kenyans use their personal cars (like the Toyota Probox or Fielder) to carry heavy loads. Standard shocks aren’t built for this. This is why Taleon Spares Kenya stocks Heavy-Duty Coil Springs and reinforced shocks to help your car handle the extra weight.

The Danger of Ignoring Worn Shocks

Driving with bad shocks isn’t just uncomfortable; it’s a massive safety risk.

  • Increased Braking Distance: Studies show that worn shocks can increase your stopping distance by up to 20%. At 80km/h, that’s several meters—the difference between stopping safely and hitting the car in front of you.
  • Aquaplaning: During the Kenyan rainy season, worn shocks prevent your tires from displacing water properly. This causes the car to “float” on the water, leading to a total loss of steering.
  • Fatigue: When a car is constantly bouncing and swaying, the driver has to work harder to keep it in a straight line. This leads to faster driver fatigue, which is a leading cause of accidents on long trips to the village.

Why Choose Ex-Japan Parts from Taleon Spares?

When it’s time to replace your shocks, you have three choices: expensive brand-new “original” parts from the showroom, cheap “no-name” imitations, or high-quality Ex-Japan parts from Taleon Spares.

Our Ex-Japan shock absorbers are sourced from vehicles that were driven on the smooth, pristine roads of Japan. This means the internal valves and seals are often in much better condition than “new” low-quality aftermarket parts sold locally. You get the quality of an OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) part at a fraction of the cost.

We Stock Parts For:

  • Toyota: Fielder, Premio, Allion, Vitz, Probox, Harrier.
  • Nissan: Note (E11/E12), Sylphy, X-Trail.
  • Mazda: Demio, CX-5, Axela.
  • Honda: Fit, Vezel, Stream.
  • Subaru: Forester, Impreza, Legacy.

Conclusion: Don’t Wait for a Breakdown

Your car’s suspension is the silent hero of your daily commute. It protects your engine, your tires, and most importantly, your family. If you’ve noticed any of the 5 signs mentioned above—the nose-diving, the cupping tires, or the endless bouncing—it’s time to take action.

Visit Taleon Spares Kenya today. We are located in the heart of Nairobi’s auto-hub, ready to provide you with the best Ex-Japan suspension parts, steering racks, and wheel hubs.
Autoparts, Autospares, Kenya, Taleon, Taleon News
January 13, 2026 By 0 Comments

Signs Your Car Suspension is Failing and How to Fix It

In Kenya, your car’s suspension system isn’t just a comfort feature; it’s a survival tool. Whether you are navigating the deep potholes of Nairobi’s industrial area or the high speed bumps of the Southern Bypass, your shocks, struts, and springs are constantly under attack.

At Taleon Autospares, we see many drivers ignore the early warning signs of suspension failure, only to face much higher repair bills later. In this guide, we’ll show you how to identify a failing suspension and, more importantly, how to fix it correctly using quality parts like our Toyota Axio 161 Heavy Duty Springs.

1. The Most Common Warning Signs

Your car usually tells you when something is wrong. You just need to know how to listen and look.

A. The “Rough Ride” (Feeling Every Pebble)

If your car has started feeling like a “mkokoteni” (handcart), where you feel every tiny bump on the road, your shock absorbers or struts are likely worn out. Their job is to dampen the impact; when they fail, the energy goes directly into the car’s chassis—and your back.

B. Drifting or Pulling During Turns

When your suspension system is failing, you’ll feel the car “sway” or pull to one side during cornering. This is dangerous because it increases the risk of a rollover, especially in higher-profile vehicles. It usually indicates that a shock absorber is no longer keeping the vehicle stable against centrifugal force.

C. The “Nose Dive” When Braking

Do you notice the front of your car dipping sharply toward the ground when you apply the brakes? This is known as “nose-diving.” It’s a classic sign of blown front shocks. Not only does this feel unstable, but it can actually increase your stopping distance by up to 20%.

D. Uneven Tire Wear

Check your tires. If you see bald spots or if one side of the tread is wearing down faster than the other, your suspension isn’t holding the car evenly. This is often caused by sagging springs or worn control arm bushings that have thrown your wheel alignment out of balance.

2. The “Bounce Test”: How to Check at Home

You don’t need a mechanic to do a basic health check.

  1. With the car parked on flat ground, go to the front corner and push down on the hood with all your weight.
  2. Release it and watch.
  3. If the car bounces more than 2 or 3 times before settling, your shocks are “shot” and need replacement.

3. The “Kenyan Fix”: Why Heavy-Duty is the Answer

Many Kenyan drivers make the mistake of replacing worn parts with standard-spec replacements. While these work in Japan, they often fail quickly on Kenyan roads.

The Heavy-Duty Advantage

At Taleon Autospares, we recommend Heavy-Duty Coil Springs (especially for the Toyota Axio 161).

  • Ground Clearance: Standard springs sag over time. Our HD springs (KSh 10,000) restore your ride height so you can clear those “Mount Kenya” speed bumps without scraping.
  • Better Load Carrying: If you frequently carry passengers or goods, heavy-duty springs prevent the car from “bottoming out” (metal hitting metal), which protects your axle and shocks.

4. How to Fix Your Suspension (The Right Way)

Fixing a suspension isn’t just about replacing one part; it’s about restoring the “geometry” of the car.

Step 1: Replace in Pairs

Never replace just one shock or one spring. If the left one is worn, the right one isn’t far behind. Replacing them in pairs ensures balanced handling and even tire wear.

Step 2: Check the “Small” Parts

While changing springs, always inspect your Stabilizer Links, Ball Joints, and Bushings. These small rubber and metal parts are often the source of those annoying “clunking” noises.

Step 3: Get an Alignment

Any time you touch the suspension—especially when installing our Toyota Axio Heavy Duty Springs—you MUST get a professional wheel alignment. This ensures your steering is straight and your new tires don’t wear out in a month.

5. Why Trust Taleon Autospares for Your Suspension?

We are Nairobi’s suspension specialists.

  • Model Specific: We have dedicated kits for the Nissan Note E11 and Toyota Axio 161.
  • Price Transparency: We offer the best value in Kenya, with Axio HD springs at KSh 10,000 and Nissan Note discs at KSh 3,000.
  • Expertise: We don’t just sell you a part; we give you the “Ex-Japan” quality that lasts.

Conclusion: Safety First

A bad suspension is more than an uncomfortable ride—it’s a safety hazard. It affects your braking, your steering, and your tire life. Don’t wait until you’re stranded on the highway.

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